sk — skip
sk means skip. It tells you to leave the next stitch unworked and go straight into the stitch after it. The skipped stitch stays in the fabric — you simply pass over it and do not put a hook into it.
Ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st → chain one, pass over one stitch without working into it, then put your double crochet in the stitch after that. You have used two stitches of the row but only made one dc, so the chain fills the gap and the count still works out.
Skipping is how patterns make chain spaces, shells, V stitches and every kind of lace hole. It nearly always pairs with an extra chain or an extra stitch somewhere else in the repeat, so the stitch count at the end of the row is unchanged. If your count is drifting, check that you skipped exactly what the pattern named — a stitch, a chain, or a chain space are three different things.
In UK patterns the same instruction is written miss: “ch 1, miss 1 st, tr in next st” is the identical row. You will also see sk1, sk 2 sts, sk next ch-sp and sk to end — all the same rule.
Abbreviation lookup
Type an abbreviation, a stitch name, or what you are trying to do. Star the ones you want on your printed sheet.
| Star☆ | Abbrev. | US term | UK term | What it means | How to work it |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ch | chain | chain (ch) | A loop pulled through the loop on your hook — the foundation of most patterns. | Yarn over and pull that yarn through the loop already on your hook. One loop stays on the hook. | |
| ch-sp | chain space | chain space (ch-sp) | The gap made by one or more chains between stitches. | Work into the hole underneath the chain, not into the chain stitches themselves. | |
| sl st | slip stitch | ss / sl st | The shortest stitch; used to join rounds, travel across stitches and finish edges. | Insert the hook, yarn over, and pull the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. | |
| sc | single crochet | double crochet (dc) | The shortest everyday stitch; makes a dense, firm fabric. | Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. | |
| esc | extended single crochet | extended double crochet (edc) | A single crochet with a chain built into it, so it is taller and softer. | Insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 loop, then yarn over and pull through both. | |
| hdc | half double crochet | half treble (htr) | Between sc and dc in height; the go-to stitch for beanies and squishy blankets. | Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3. | |
| dc | double crochet | treble (tr) | The workhorse tall stitch; grows fast and drapes well. | Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over and pull through 2, yarn over and pull through the last 2. | |
| tr | treble crochet | double treble (dtr) | Taller than dc; makes open, airy fabric. | Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop (4 loops), then [yarn over, pull through 2] three times. | |
| dtr | double treble crochet | triple treble (trtr) | One step taller again than tr. | Yarn over 3 times, insert hook, pull up a loop (5 loops), then [yarn over, pull through 2] four times. | |
| trtr | triple treble crochet | quadruple treble (quadtr) | The tallest stitch in common use. | Yarn over 4 times, insert hook, pull up a loop (6 loops), then [yarn over, pull through 2] five times. | |
| rsc | reverse single crochet | reverse double crochet | Also called crab stitch — a corded, twisted edging. | Work sc backwards along the edge: left to right if you crochet right-handed. | |
| FSC | foundation single crochet | foundation double crochet | Makes the starting chain and the first row of sc at the same time, so the edge is stretchy. | Ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook. Then for each stitch: insert hook under the chain bar of the last stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 1 (that is the chain), yarn over and pull through 2. | |
| FDC | foundation double crochet | foundation treble | The same idea as FSC, worked at double-crochet height. | Ch 3, dc in 3rd ch from hook, then work each new dc into the chain bar at the base of the previous one. | |
| t-ch | turning chain | turning chain (t-ch) | The chains at the start of a row that bring your yarn up to the height of the stitch. | Ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr — unless the pattern says otherwise, and it often does. | |
| FPdc | front post double crochet | front post treble (FPtr) | A dc worked around the post of the stitch below from the front; makes a raised ridge for ribbing and cables. | Yarn over, insert the hook front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, then finish as a normal dc. | |
| BPdc | back post double crochet | back post treble (BPtr) | A dc worked around the post from the back; pushes the stitch away from you. Alternate with FPdc for ribbing. | Yarn over, insert the hook back to front to back around the post below, then finish as a normal dc. | |
| FPsc | front post single crochet | front post double crochet | A short, tight raised stitch — used for firm surface texture. | Insert the hook around the post of the stitch below from the front and work a normal sc. | |
| BPsc | back post single crochet | back post double crochet | The recessed partner to FPsc. | Insert the hook around the post from the back and work a normal sc. | |
| FPtr | front post treble crochet | front post double treble | A tall raised stitch, usually used to travel across a cable. | Yarn over twice, insert the hook around the post from the front, then finish as a normal tr. | |
| BPtr | back post treble crochet | back post double treble | The recessed partner to FPtr. | Yarn over twice, insert the hook around the post from the back, then finish as a normal tr. | |
| puff | puff stitch | puff stitch | A soft cushion made from several tall loops closed together. | [Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a tall loop] 3–5 times in the same stitch, yarn over, pull through all loops, then ch 1 to lock it. | |
| bo / bobble | bobble stitch | bobble stitch | A firm bump made from several unfinished dc closed at the top. | Work 4–5 dc in the same stitch but stop each one with 2 loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through every loop. | |
| pc / popcorn | popcorn stitch | popcorn stitch | A bump made from finished stitches folded forward — rounder and firmer than a bobble. | Work 5 dc in one stitch, drop the working loop, insert the hook in the top of the first dc, pick the loop back up and pull it through. | |
| cl | cluster | cluster | Several partly-worked stitches joined at the top into one. | Work each stitch until 2 loops remain on the hook, then yarn over and pull through all remaining loops at once. | |
| shell | shell stitch | shell stitch | Several stitches in one place so they fan out. | Usually 5 dc worked into the same stitch or chain space. The pattern skips stitches on either side to make room. | |
| V-st | V stitch | V stitch | Two tall stitches split by a chain, all worked into one stitch. | (Dc, ch 1, dc) all in the same stitch or chain space. | |
| picot | picot | picot | A small decorative bump, almost always on an edging. | Ch 3, then sl st back into the first of those chains (or into the stitch at the base). | |
| lp st | loop stitch | loop stitch | Leaves a hanging loop on the back of the work — used for fur and fringe. | Wrap the yarn over your finger to set the loop length, then work a sc catching both strands of the wrap. | |
| spike | spike stitch | spike stitch | A stitch worked down into a row below the working row. | Insert the hook one or more rows below, pull up a loop level with your work, then finish the stitch as usual. | |
| inc | increase | increase | Adds a stitch to the row or round. | Work 2 stitches into the same stitch. | |
| dec | decrease | decrease | Removes a stitch from the row or round. | Work two stitches together so they share a single top. See sc2tog and dc2tog. | |
| tog | together | together | Worked together as one stitch — always follows a number and a stitch name. | Read it backwards: dc2tog = “double crochet 2 stitches together”. | |
| sc2tog | single crochet 2 together | dc2tog | Turns two stitches into one sc. | [Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop] in each of the next 2 stitches (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3. | |
| sc3tog | single crochet 3 together | dc3tog | Turns three stitches into one — a double decrease. | Pull up a loop in each of the next 3 stitches (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4. | |
| hdc2tog | half double crochet 2 together | htr2tog | Turns two stitches into one hdc. | [Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop] in each of the next 2 stitches (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 5. | |
| dc2tog | double crochet 2 together | tr2tog | Turns two stitches into one dc. | Work a dc in each of the next 2 stitches but stop each one with 2 loops on the hook (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3. | |
| dc3tog | double crochet 3 together | tr3tog | Turns three stitches into one dc — also the usual way to close a cluster. | Work 3 dc stopping each with 2 loops on the hook (4 loops), yarn over, pull through all 4. | |
| invdec | invisible decrease | invisible decrease | The tidy amigurumi decrease — it barely shows on the right side. | Insert the hook in the front loop only of each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and pull through both front loops, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. | |
| sk | skip | miss | Leave the next stitch unworked and go into the one after it. | Pass over the stitch without putting a hook into it, then work into whatever the pattern names next. | |
| sk1 / sk 1 | skip 1 stitch | miss 1 | Exactly one stitch is left unworked. | Count carefully: “sk 1 st” skips a stitch, “sk 1 ch” skips a chain, and “sk next ch-sp” skips a whole gap. | |
| st | stitch | stitch | One stitch. | “Next st” means the very next one along, whatever type it is. | |
| sts | stitches | stitches | More than one stitch. Usually seen in the count at the end of a row. | “(36 sts)” at the end of a row is a checkpoint — count before you move on. | |
| sp | space | space | A gap you work into rather than a stitch — usually made by chains. | Push the hook under the chain into the open hole, not through the top of a stitch. | |
| BLO | back loop only | back loop only | Work into the back loop of the stitch top only; leaves a horizontal ridge on the front. | The stitch top is two strands. Use only the one furthest from you. | |
| FLO | front loop only | front loop only | Work into the front loop only; the ridge lands on the back instead. | Use only the strand of the stitch top nearest to you. | |
| BL / FL | back loop / front loop | back loop / front loop | The individual strands that make up the top of a stitch. | Used when a pattern wants both loops named separately — for example a puff worked in the FL. | |
| tbl | through the back loop | through the back loop | The same instruction as BLO, written for a single stitch. | Insert the hook under the back strand only, then work the stitch normally. | |
| yo | yarn over | yarn over hook (yoh / yrh) | Wrap the working yarn over the hook. | Always back to front, so the yarn sits ready to be pulled through. | |
| yrh / yoh | — | yarn round hook / yarn over hook | The UK way of writing yo. Identical action. | Wrap the yarn over the hook back to front. | |
| beg | beginning | beginning | The start of a row, round or section. | “Beg ch-3” is the turning chain at the start of a dc row, and it usually counts as a stitch. | |
| rnd / rnds | round(s) | round(s) | A full circuit when you are working in a spiral or a joined circle. | Rounds are not turned unless the pattern says so — that is the main difference from rows. | |
| row | row | row | A pass worked flat, then turned. | If the instruction says “turn” at the end, you are working rows. | |
| rep | repeat | repeat | Do the named instruction again. | “Rep from * to end” means keep repeating the marked section until you run out of stitches. | |
| rem | remaining | remaining | The stitches still left in the row or round. | “Sc in each rem st” = single crochet in everything that is left. | |
| cont | continue | continue | Keep working the pattern the way it has already been set up. | “Cont in patt” means carry on with the stitch sequence you have been repeating. | |
| alt | alternate | alternate | Every other one. | “Dec at each end of every alt row” = decrease on rows 2, 4, 6 and so on. | |
| prev | previous | previous | The row, round or stitch immediately before this one. | “Prev rnd” is the round you just finished. | |
| ea | each | each | Every single one of them. | “Sc in ea st around” means one sc in every stitch, no skips. | |
| bet | between | between | Work into the gap between two stitches instead of into their tops. | Push the hook through the fabric between the two posts, not under the stitch top. | |
| RS | right side | right side | The face of the fabric meant to show when the piece is finished. | Mark it with a stitch marker on row 1 so you never have to guess. | |
| WS | wrong side | wrong side | The back of the fabric. | On a turned row the WS is simply whatever is facing you when the RS is not. | |
| turn | turn | turn | Flip the work over to start the next row. | Turn the same way every time — it keeps the edges even. | |
| join | join | join | Close a round, or attach a new yarn or piece. | Usually a sl st into the top of the first stitch of the round. | |
| FO | fasten off | fasten off | Finish the piece and secure the yarn. | Cut the yarn a few inches long, yarn over, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, then weave the end in. | |
| MR | magic ring | magic ring / magic circle | An adjustable starting loop that pulls closed to a tiny hole — how almost every amigurumi and hat crown starts. | Wrap the yarn into a loop over your fingers, work the first round of stitches into the loop, then pull the tail to close the center. | |
| WIP | work in progress | work in progress | Any project you have started and not finished. | Not an instruction — you will meet it in pattern notes and craft groups. | |
| [ ] | brackets | brackets | Work everything inside the brackets the number of times stated straight after them. | [Dc, ch 1] 3 times = dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1. | |
| ( ) | parentheses | parentheses | Either a group of stitches worked into one place, or the stitch count at the end of a row. | (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-sp = all of that into the same space. (36) at the end of a row is a count. | |
| * | asterisk | asterisk | Marks the start of a section you will be told to repeat. | “*Sc in next st, sk 1 st; rep from * to end” — go back to the star each time. | |
| ** | double asterisk | double asterisk | Marks a second, usually longer, repeat section nested around the single-asterisk one. | Finish the * repeat first, then honor the ** instruction. | |
| patt / pat | pattern | pattern | The written instructions, or the stitch sequence they set up. | “Work in patt” means keep the established sequence going. | |
| approx | approximately | approximately | Close to, not exact. | Common on finished measurements, which change with your gauge and how firmly you work. | |
| gauge | gauge | tension | How many stitches and rows fit into 4 inches / 10 cm with a given yarn and hook. | Crochet a swatch at least 6 inches wide, then measure the middle 4 inches. Change hook size until it matches. | |
| MC | main color | main colour | The dominant yarn color in the project. | Buy the MC first and match the rest to it — it is the color you will run out of. | |
| CC | contrasting color | contrast colour | The second color. CC1, CC2 and so on when there are several. | Carry the unused color loosely along the top of the row so the fabric does not pucker. | |
| A / B / C | color A, B, C | colour A, B, C | Labels for each color in a multi-color pattern. | Write your actual yarn names next to the letters before you start. | |
| pm | place marker | place marker | Put a stitch marker in the stitch you just made. | Essential for spirals — the marker is the only way to find the start of the round. | |
| sm | slip marker | slip marker | Move the marker up to the new row or round as you pass it. | Take it out and put it back into the stitch you just worked. | |
| rm | remove marker | remove marker | Take the marker out; you no longer need it. | Usually right before the shaping changes. | |
| yd / yds | yard(s) | yard(s) | How yarn length is quoted on US labels. | 1 yard = 0.914 meters. Multiply yards by 0.914 to get meters. | |
| m | meter(s) | metre(s) | How yarn length is quoted on most non-US labels. | 1 meter = 1.094 yards. Multiply meters by 1.094 to get yards. | |
| g | gram(s) | gram(s) | Yarn is sold by weight; 100 g is the most common ball size. | Two balls of the same weight can hold very different lengths — always read the yardage too. | |
| oz | ounce(s) | ounce(s) | The US weight unit on yarn labels. | 1 oz = 28.35 g, so a 3.5 oz skein is about 100 g. | |
| mm | millimeter(s) | millimetre(s) | How hooks are actually measured. The mm number is the reliable size; letters and UK numbers are conventions. | An H/8 hook is 5.0 mm. If a pattern and your hook disagree, trust the mm. | |
| WPI | wraps per inch | wraps per inch | How many strands of a yarn fit in one inch when wrapped around a ruler — used to identify unlabeled stash yarn. | Wrap without stretching and count. Roughly: 9 wpi = bulky, 11–12 = worsted, 13–14 = DK, 15–18 = sport/fingering. | |
| skein | skein | ball / hank | One unit of yarn as it is sold. | Patterns quote skeins of a specific yarn; convert to yards before you substitute anything. | |
| dye lot | dye lot | dye lot | The batch number printed on the label. Two skeins of the same shade from different lots can differ visibly. | Buy all your yarn for a project in one dye lot, and buy one extra ball. | |
| tss | Tunisian simple stitch | Tunisian simple stitch | The basic Tunisian stitch, worked into the vertical bar. | Forward pass: insert the hook behind the vertical bar, yarn over, pull up a loop and keep it on the hook. | |
| tks | Tunisian knit stitch | Tunisian knit stitch | Looks like stockinette knitting. | Insert the hook between the front and back vertical bars, straight through the stitch, then pull up a loop. | |
| tps | Tunisian purl stitch | Tunisian purl stitch | The bumpy Tunisian stitch; used to stop the fabric curling. | Bring the yarn to the front, insert the hook behind the vertical bar, then pull up a loop. | |
| FwP | forward pass | forward pass | Tunisian: the trip across picking up loops. | Collect every loop onto the hook without working any of them off. Do not turn. | |
| RetP | return pass | return pass | Tunisian: the trip back working the loops off. | Yarn over, pull through 1, then [yarn over, pull through 2] until one loop remains. | |
| c2c | corner to corner | corner to corner | A diagonal block technique used for graph blankets. | Each block is ch 3, 3 dc. You increase diagonally to the halfway point, then decrease. | |
| amigurumi | amigurumi | amigurumi | Small stuffed crochet toys, worked in tight spirals of sc. | Use a hook one or two sizes smaller than the yarn label suggests so the stuffing cannot show through. | |
| tapestry | tapestry crochet | tapestry crochet | Colorwork where the unused colors are carried inside the stitches. | Work sc over the carried strands so they hide in the stitch and the back stays tidy. | |
| frog | frogging | frogging | Pulling work out to redo it (“rip it, rip it”). | Pull the yarn slowly and wind as you go so it does not tangle. | |
| blocking | blocking | blocking | Wetting or steaming a finished piece and pinning it to shape. | Acrylic responds to steam held above the fabric; cotton and wool prefer a wet soak and pins. | |
| right / left front | right / left front | right / left front | Named as they sit on the wearer, not as you look at the garment. | Hold the piece up to yourself: the right front is the one on your right. | |
| ch-less dc | chainless starting dc | chainless starting tr | A first stitch that replaces the ch-3 turning chain and looks like a real dc. | Sl st, then pinch and pull the loop up to dc height, yarn over, insert hook and finish as a dc. | |
| standing st | standing stitch | standing stitch | Starting a new color with a full stitch instead of a slip-stitch join. | Make a slip knot on the hook, then work the stitch straight into the fabric. | |
| multiple of | multiple of | multiple of | Tells you how long your starting chain must be for the repeat to come out even. | “Multiple of 4 + 2” means chain any multiple of 4, then add 2 more: 18, 22, 26 and so on. | |
| RS row / WS row | right-side row / wrong-side row | right-side row / wrong-side row | Which face of the fabric is towards you as you work that row. | On a flat piece these alternate. Row 1 is normally a RS row unless the pattern says otherwise. | |
| in / cm | inch(es) / centimeter(s) | inch(es) / centimetre(s) | Finished measurements. US patterns lead with inches, most others with cm. | 1 in = 2.54 cm. A 4 in gauge square is 10 cm. | |
| ply | — | ply (UK / AU yarn weight) | The UK and Australian way of naming yarn thickness: 4 ply, 8 ply, 12 ply. | Roughly: 4 ply = US fingering, 8 ply = US DK, 10 ply = US worsted, 12 ply = US chunky. | |
| sl st BLO | slip stitch in back loop only | slip stitch in back loop only | The classic stretchy crochet ribbing, worked sideways. | Slip stitch through the back loop of each stitch along the row, then turn and repeat. | |
| ch-2 sp | chain-2 space | chain-2 space | A gap made by two chains — the corner space in most granny squares. | Work into the hole under both chains at once. | |
| sk to end | skip to end | miss to end | Leave every remaining stitch of the row unworked. | Common in shaping: you turn early and leave the rest for the next section. | |
| hdc3tog | half double crochet 3 together | htr3tog | Turns three stitches into one hdc — also how a hdc cluster is closed. | [Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop] in each of the next 3 stitches (7 loops), yarn over, pull through all 7. | |
| 2 dc in st | double crochet increase | 2 tr in st | The written-out form of a dc increase. | Work both stitches into the same stitch top; the pair leans apart like a V. | |
| 2 sc in st | single crochet increase | 2 dc in st | The standard amigurumi increase, often written just “inc”. | Two sc into the same stitch. Six of these spaced evenly is one full amigurumi increase round. | |
| dtr2tog | double treble 2 together | trtr2tog | A tall decrease, mostly seen in lace and shawls. | Work two dtr stopping each with 2 loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through all 3. | |
| dec evenly | decrease evenly across | decrease evenly across | Spread a number of decreases across a row so the shaping does not show. | Divide the stitch count by the number of decreases to get the spacing. 36 sts and 6 decreases = one decrease every 6 stitches. | |
| inc evenly | increase evenly across | increase evenly across | The same idea in the other direction. | Same math: stitch count divided by the number of increases gives the interval. |
No abbreviation matches that. Try the stitch name instead — “together”, “post”, “loop”.
US vs UK crochet terms
The same stitch has two names. UK names sit one step taller than US names.
| US term | UK term | |
|---|---|---|
| slip stitch (sl st) | ↔ | slip stitch (ss) |
| chain (ch) | ↔ | chain (ch) |
| single crochet (sc) | ↔ | double crochet (dc) |
| half double crochet (hdc) | ↔ | half treble (htr) |
| double crochet (dc) | ↔ | treble (tr) |
| treble crochet (tr) | ↔ | double treble (dtr) |
| double treble (dtr) | ↔ | triple treble (trtr) |
| skip (sk) | ↔ | miss |
| gauge | ↔ | tension |
| yarn over (yo) | ↔ | yarn round hook (yrh) |
The dangerous one is dc. It exists in both systems and means two different stitches: a US dc is tall, a UK dc is the short one. If a pattern lists dc, htr and tr and never mentions sc, it is a UK pattern — read every dc as a single crochet.
Stitch symbol chart
The international symbols used on crochet charts, for the fifteen stitches you will meet most.
Charts are read the way the fabric is built: rows from the bottom up, alternating direction, and rounds from the center outwards, counter-clockwise for right-handed crocheters. The number of slashes on a tall stitch tells you how many times to yarn over before you start.
How to read a crochet pattern without getting lost
A crochet pattern is shorthand, and once you know the shorthand it reads like a recipe. Every instruction is built from three parts: what stitch, how many, and where it goes. “2 dc in next ch-sp” is stitch (double crochet), count (two), and place (the next chain space). The table above is the vocabulary; this is the grammar.
The parts that trip people up are the punctuation, not the stitches. Square brackets group an instruction to be repeated a set number of times. Parentheses do double duty: they group stitches that all go into the same place, and at the end of a row they give you a stitch count to check against. An asterisk marks a point you will be sent back to. Anything in italics or in a note is usually telling you whether the turning chain counts as a stitch, which is the single most common reason a project ends up one stitch narrower every row.
A worked example
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk 1 st, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st; rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn. (24 sts)
Read it in order. Chain three to reach double-crochet height, and that chain is your first stitch. Skip one stitch of the row below, because the chain already used it up. Now repeat the starred section: one dc, one chain, skip one. Keep repeating until only two stitches are left, then put a dc in each of those and turn. When you count the row you should have 24 stitches, counting the beginning chain-3 as one of them and counting each ch-1 space as one of them.
If you finish with 23, the usual cause is that you did not count the turning chain. If you finish with 25, you probably worked into the stitch you were told to skip.
US or UK — check before you start, not after
A UK pattern worked as if it were US produces fabric that is far too tall and far too loose, and you will not notice until three rows in. The quickest test is to look for sc. US patterns use it constantly; UK patterns never do. If the stitch list runs dc, htr, tr, it is UK, and every dc in that pattern is what a US crocheter calls a single crochet.
Print the sheet you actually need
Star the abbreviations your current pattern uses and print just those — it fits on one page and it sits next to you while you work. If you are learning, print the whole thing once and keep it in your project bag. Either way it prints in two columns, scaled to fit, with no navigation and no ads.
Frequently asked questions
What does sk stand for in crochet?
sk stands for skip. It tells you to leave the next stitch unworked and go straight into the stitch after it. UK patterns write miss for the same instruction.
What does sk1 mean in a crochet pattern?
Skip exactly one stitch. You will also see sk 2 sts, sk next ch-sp and sk to end, which follow the same rule: pass over what is named, and work into whatever comes next.
What is the difference between US and UK crochet abbreviations?
UK names sit one step taller. US sc = UK dc, US hdc = UK htr, US dc = UK tr, US tr = UK dtr. Chain and slip stitch are the same in both.
How do I know if a pattern uses US or UK terms?
Look at the stitch list. If it contains sc, it is US. If it runs dc, htr and tr with no sc anywhere, it is UK. Most patterns say so near the materials list.
Why does my stitch count keep changing?
Three causes, in order of likelihood: the turning chain counts as a stitch and you are not counting it; you worked into the stitch you were told to skip; or you worked twice into the last stitch of the row. Count at the end of every row for the first few rows and the problem shows itself fast.