Estimate yardage from your project size — or your own gauge swatch
Quick estimate uses measured average yarn consumption per square inch for your stitch & yarn weight. For best accuracy, measure a swatch.
Gauge is used for the stitch-count estimate. Work a 4" swatch with your yarn & hook for accuracy.
Check your yarn label. Default based on weight.
Looking good!
Yarn use follows area, not stitch count. Work out the finished square inches, multiply by how many yards of yarn a square inch of your fabric eats, and add a buffer. That is the whole method:
yards = width × height × (yards per square inch) × 1.10
The yards-per-square-inch figures below came from unravelling measured 4 inch worsted swatches: 479 inches of yarn for 156 single crochet, 421 for 96 half double, 395 for 72 double crochet. That works out at 0.832 yards per square inch for single crochet, 0.731 for half double and 0.686 for double, with treble around 0.65. Other yarn weights scale from worsted: lace ×2.12, sport ×1.44, DK ×1.16, bulky ×0.76, super bulky ×0.64.
The 1.10 on the end is the buy allowance — tails, the border, the join you frog and redo. It is already in every number this page shows.
Notice what is not in the formula: stitch count. Two crocheters working the same blanket at different gauges use nearly the same yarn, because the tighter one puts more stitches into the same area with less yarn in each. Gauge changes your stitch count and your hook, not the yardage — which is why the stitch total on this page is marked approximate.
Every number below is this calculator's own formula, run for you. Worsted weight (CYC 4) with the 10 percent buffer included. For bulky, multiply by 0.76; for DK, by 1.16.
| Size | Inches | cm | Single crochet | Half double | Double | Bulky (sc) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Preemie | 18 × 24 | 46 × 61 | 396 | 348 | 326 | 301 |
| Lovey | 12 × 12 | 30 × 30 | 132 | 116 | 109 | 101 |
| Baby | 30 × 36 | 76 × 91 | 989 | 869 | 815 | 752 |
| Receiving | 36 × 36 | 91 × 91 | 1,187 | 1,043 | 978 | 902 |
| Crib | 36 × 52 | 91 × 132 | 1,714 | 1,506 | 1,413 | 1,303 |
| Toddler | 42 × 52 | 107 × 132 | 1,999 | 1,757 | 1,649 | 1,520 |
| Throw | 50 × 60 | 127 × 152 | 2,746 | 2,413 | 2,264 | 2,087 |
| Twin | 66 × 90 | 168 × 229 | 5,437 | 4,777 | 4,483 | 4,132 |
| Full | 80 × 90 | 203 × 229 | 6,590 | 5,790 | 5,434 | 5,008 |
| Queen | 90 × 108 | 229 × 274 | 8,896 | 7,816 | 7,335 | 6,761 |
| King | 108 × 108 | 274 × 274 | 10,675 | 9,380 | 8,802 | 8,113 |
Working a blanket specifically? The blanket calculator answers how much yarn do I need for a blanket along with your starting chain and the size chart.
| Project | Inches | Single crochet | Half double | Double |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Short scarf | 6 × 48 | 264 | 232 | 218 |
| Medium scarf | 7 × 60 | 385 | 338 | 317 |
| Long scarf | 8 × 72 | 528 | 464 | 435 |
| Short cowl | 24 circ × 8 | 176 | 155 | 145 |
| Medium cowl | 28 circ × 10 | 257 | 226 | 212 |
| Infinity cowl | 54 circ × 10 | 495 | 435 | 408 |
| Size | Inches | Single crochet | Half double | Double |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Newborn | 12 × 5 | 55 | 49 | 46 |
| Baby | 14 × 5.5 | 71 | 62 | 59 |
| Toddler | 16 × 6 | 88 | 78 | 73 |
| Child | 18 × 7 | 116 | 102 | 96 |
| Adult small | 20 × 8 | 147 | 129 | 121 |
| Adult M/L | 22 × 8.5 | 172 | 151 | 142 |
Hats are figured as circumference × height, which covers the tube and the crown together. One 220-yard skein makes any of them; two gets you a slouchy adult hat with a folded brim.
| Size | Height | Surface area | Single crochet |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small | 4 in | 50 in² | 47 |
| Medium | 8 in | 201 in² | 185 |
| Large | 12 in | 452 in² | 415 |
Amigurumi is treated as a sphere, so the area is π × height². Most amigurumi is worked at a deliberately tight gauge to keep the stuffing in, which pushes real use a little above these numbers.
You want a throw for the sofa, in worsted, single crochet, at a gauge of 14 stitches and 16 rows per 4 inches, from 220-yard skeins.
Switch that same throw to double crochet and it drops to 2,264 yards, 11 skeins, and roughly a third of the time. Switch it to bulky single crochet and it is 2,087 yards — but bulky skeins are short, so check the label before you assume that is fewer of them.
About 2,750 yards of worsted-weight yarn in single crochet — that is 3,000 square inches at roughly 0.83 yards per square inch, plus a 10 percent buffer. Double crochet covers the same area with less yarn, about 2,265 yards, because the stitches are taller. In bulky weight the same throw needs about 2,090 yards. Buy all of it in one dye lot; running short on a blanket is the worst time to discover the color has shifted.
Yarn use tracks area, not stitch count. Multiply the finished width by the finished height to get square inches, multiply by the yards per square inch for your stitch and yarn weight, then add ten percent for tails, the border and the skein you run short on. Worsted single crochet is about 0.83 yards per square inch, half double 0.73 and double 0.69. This calculator does exactly that, and can also measure your own rate from a swatch.
Because it covers more area per stitch than it consumes in yarn. A double crochet uses roughly 1.8 times as much yarn as a single crochet but covers about 2.2 times the area, so the same blanket in double crochet needs roughly 18 percent less yarn — and takes far less time. That is why afghans are so often worked in double crochet.
Divide the yardage by the yards on your yarn label, then round up. A 50x60 throw at 2,750 yards in a 220-yard worsted skein is 12.5 skeins, so 13. The yarn chicken meter shows how close you are to needing that extra skein: if you land at 12.1 skeins you are one row from disaster and should buy 13 anyway.
Yes, and more than people expect. A looser gauge covers more area with the same yarn, so a loose crocheter uses less yarn for the same finished size — but the fabric is thinner and the drape is different. This is why swatch mode is the accurate option: weigh a 4-inch swatch, convert grams to yards using your label, and the calculator uses your real consumption instead of an average.
Ten percent is already included in the number you see. Add more if you are working a color-change pattern with lots of ends, if the border is deep, or if you cannot get the same dye lot later. Take some off only when you are working from a stash you can top up.