Tube to garment for Sentro, addi and other circular knitting machines
A circular knitting machine makes one thing: a tube, at one fixed circumference. Everything else — a top, a cowl, a bag, leg warmers, a pillow cover — is that tube cut, folded, gathered or seamed into shape. This calculator works out which construction actually reaches the size you want on the machine you own, how many rows it takes, and where the colour changes fall.
Gauge is the whole game here. The defaults are typical; swatch and replace them.
Give the finished measurements of the object, not of the tube.
Add colours and how many rows each one runs for. The row card tells you the exact row to change on.
Numbers update as you type.
Read this before you plan a sweater. It saves a lot of unpicking.
All the shaping in machine knitting therefore happens after the fabric comes off the machine, and it happens in four ways: gathering (run a tail through the live stitches and pull — this is how every machine-knit hat crown is closed), seaming (join panels or tubes to make a circumference the machine cannot reach on its own), folding (double the fabric for a warm brim or a lined bag), and hand-finishing (crochet or hand-knit a ribbed band, a neckline or a crown directly onto the machine edge). Anyone selling you a machine-knit "shaped garment pattern" is selling you one of those four, written out.
Which is why this calculator does not offer raglan decrease schedules. It offers the construction that actually reaches your measurement, and tells you when your machine cannot.
Three numbers do all the work: the needle count, your stitch gauge and your row gauge.
tube circumference = needles ÷ stitches per inch
panel width = needles in work ÷ stitches per inch
length = rows ÷ rows per inch
Once you know the tube circumference, there are only three ways to reach a target measurement, and the calculator picks between them:
Stripes are just row arithmetic on top: a sequence of colours with a row count each, laid end to end and repeated until the total row count is used up. The row card lists the row number each change falls on, so you can crank without counting in your head.
This is a real query people type. The honest answer is not the one they are hoping for.
Enter Sentro 40, worsted, project "tube top", 30 inch bust, 14 inch length and the calculator returns exactly this.
Knitted in the round you would need about 75 needles at a worsted gauge of 2.6 stitches per inch (a 30 inch bust with 5% negative ease is a 28.5 inch top), and no circular machine has that many — the biggest common one is 48. What you do instead is knit a flat panel sideways: 40 or 48 needles wide gives a 15.4 to 18.5 inch panel which becomes the height of the top, and you crank 28.5 inches worth of rows, about 200 at 7 rows per inch, then seam the two short ends into a loop. One seam, exactly the right size.
Not in the fabric. These machines have no way to increase, decrease, do short rows or move a stitch between needles, so armholes, raglan lines and waist shaping cannot be knitted in. Shaping happens off the machine: gathering live stitches, seaming panels together, folding, and hand-finishing edges with a hook or needles. That is not a limitation you can work around with a clever setting; it is what the machine is.
Crank back and forth rather than continuously round. Most machines have a lever or a stopper that switches from round to flat; on the Sentro it is the row counter side switch. The panel can be up to the full needle count wide. Work slowly at the turns — the end needles are where stitches drop.
A Sentro 48 tube is about 18.5 inches around in worsted, which is a snug single-loop cowl. For a 10 inch tall cowl, 10 × 7 = 70 rows single layer, or 140 rows if you want it doubled and folded, which is what most people actually want because a single-layer machine tube curls at the edges.
Because knitted fabric relaxes when it comes off the needles. The needle circle is fixed but the stitches pull in, and how much they pull in depends on yarn thickness and tension. That relaxed measurement is your real gauge, which is why every calculation here starts with a swatch rather than with the machine's advertised diameter.
You can make a sweater out of machine-knit fabric, which is a different sentence. Knit the panels — front, back, two sleeves — flat, at the width the machine gives you, and seam them. The armholes and neckline are cut and finished by hand, or built in by leaving seams open. Drop-shoulder and boxy shapes work; set-in sleeves and fitted shaping do not.